Gord Steinke's Arctic Motorcycle Adventure

End Of The Road

2010-08-14T08:42:00.010-06:00

After racking up 5,461 km on this round trip journey to the Yukon I have to say (and I'm sure ride buddy Rob Pearson would agree) - it really was the trip of a lifetime. The scenery and people were outstanding. And you can't beat a hands on history and geography lesson from the back of a motorcycle.

"The Beast" - as Cycle Works owner Jim Roth nicknamed it this spring - is surprisingly agile for such a huge machine. It performed extremely well in all conditions - highway, gravel and mud. My only criticism? You'd think with all the planning that went into designing such a high tech bike - they'd put a softer bigger seat on it.:)

Unfortunately, due to mother nature - we didn't get as far North as we planned. It was disappointing to get within a few hundred km of the Arctic Circle and forced to turn back.. but hey there's always next year! The Mad Trapper slipped away during the thunderstorms - but he's still out there somewhere...

I hope you enjoy the pictures... I'm going to wash the bike.

Gord

KTM - Back In the Saddle

2010-08-14T08:23:00.003-06:00

It takes a bit of a gym move to get this 6' 5" frame on the 990 Adventure because of its high clearance. At one of our last stops in Beaverlodge, AB. I share a couple of tricks to get on board.

Heading Home

2010-08-13T08:45:00.013-06:00

After a couple of fascinating days exploring Dawson City we ride out of town and head to Whitehorse where we overnight at my cousin Leona's and husband JM'S acreage. Home cooking, good company and a soft bed are much appreciated. Chain has to be tightened on KTM and both bikes get the once over. KTM hasn't burned a drop of oil.

You may notice in pic 6 Rob appears on the verge of saying "Quit posing and get on the damn bike!"

We load up and head for Edmonton. Weather permitting we hope to make it home in two days - riding 12 hours a day.

Dawson City Yukon

2010-08-12T09:28:00.014-06:00

Arrived in Dawson City in the pouring rain but there's nothing gray and gloomy about this colourful town. The first thing you see are the buildings painted in yellow, purple and red.

This was once the centre of excitement caused by the world's most spectacular gold strikes. Today the population is around a thousand... in 1896 more than 30 - thousand people called Dawson home. It was the largest city north of San Francisco.

The history is amazing... walking down the streets is like stepping back in time. From original storefronts to the homes of author poets Robert Service and Jack London - every corner holds a surprise from the past.

Stayed at the Triple J log cabins. A fridge, stove and full kitchen for 140 a day. Bikes parked outside front door.

The nightlife is entertaining to say the least. Had to try a sour toe cocktail at Downton Hotel and yes it's a real human toe. Had a great time in Diamond Tooth Gertie's and a first class vaudeville musical.

Visiting Robert Service's original cabin was a thrill . The writer poet is best known for "The Cremation of Sam cMcGee" and "The Shooting of
Dan McGree." Service lived in Dawson from 1902 -1912.

The wooden board walk at the edge of town on 8 St. also takes you Jack London's trappers cabin - not far from Klondike author Pierre Berton's childhood home.

London was an American author, journalist, and social activist. He is best remembered as the writer of the Yukon Gold Rush Novel "Call Of The Wild" as well as the short story "To Build A Fire." A prolific writer he died at the age of 40.

I had the pleasure to meet an experienced gold miner who came over from Stockport, England 50 years ago hoping to strike it rich. To this day - John Heenan (don't ask his age) works two gold claims outside of town.

retreating from Dempster

2010-08-11T09:14:00.005-06:00

RCMP tell us it's the first time in a long time Dempster has been a washout in the summer. Not once but twice. Disappointing news for us... we decide to cut our losses and head to Dawson City, Yukon to dry out.

2010-08-11T08:45:00.006-06:00

camping on the dempster... road shut down due to bad weather. One mosquito the size of a small hummingbird makes a fatal attempt to enter my tent.

KTM

2010-08-11T08:35:00.011-06:00

After more than 3000 km - I have to say KTM is a remarkable machine... lots of fun in the mountain passes. It has tons of power and handles extremely well in sharp corners. The two cylinder 4 stroke engine actually growls when you pull out to pass and eats up the road. the best part - get this - with all this horsepower (115) and aggressive riding I'm getting 340 km to the tank... and that's in these mountains!! On the really rough roads you can adjust suspension with the twist of a dial on the back left side of the seat. Makes quite a huge difference.
Scorpion pirelli tires are getting a little thin at this point...

Road Friends

2010-08-06T18:34:00.005-06:00

Forest fire smoke makes driving and breathing a challenge so we stop west of Watson Lake Yukon. We meet a colourful group of rv'ers waiting to cross the bridge at Junction 37 (the highway that goes south to Prince George). Forest fires closed the road so dozens of travelers get to know each other as they wait for news about the situation. Oil camp bunk houses at 45 bucks are a bargain though behind gas station.
Next picture is a group of bikers from U.S. and Ireland at Stewart Crossing south of Dawson City. They warn us to clean out air filters during Dempster trek because of dust... five hours later we found conditions a little different on the road. It just goes to show how quickly weather can change in the Yukon..

Dempster Highway

2010-08-06T18:29:00.004-06:00

Arriving at the notorious Dempster Highway in pouring rain.

ride buddy

2010-08-06T18:25:00.008-06:00

ride buddy Rob Pearson riding Suzuki VStrom. Gas mileage of two bikes is within one litre every fill-up..

Whitehorse, Yukon

2010-08-06T18:10:00.011-06:00

In Whitehorse, Capital of Yukon, stopping in to visit family and friends. Incredibly scenic town on the banks of the mighty Yukon River... everyone here is so friendly and extremely proud of the area's rich Klondike history. The community has done an outstanding job of preserving its old buildings and landmarks. Bike is running great! Why did I buy a bug net?

Welcome to Yukon

2010-08-04T18:40:00.005-06:00

After 18 hour ride arrived in Yukon Tuesday evening. Not many towns but mountain scenery is spectacular! Weird - not a bug in sight.

2010-08-02T22:47:00.003-06:00

After hitting crosswinds and rainy weather a safe arrival in Dawson Creek.
Mile Zero.

August 2, 2010 - Day of Departure

2010-08-02T10:21:00.003-06:00

Hittin' the road. Great travel day.

KTM ready to roll

2010-07-27T11:16:00.000-06:00

here's the KTM 990 Adventure with the bags on and ready to hit the road six days before we leave. The guard dog (Daisy Duke) will not be riding along for this trip.

Edmonton, Ab

2010-07-19T12:57:00.000-06:00

two weeks to departure date for the Arctic Circle on KTM 990 Adventure..

Thanks to Edmonton Cycle Works - Jim Roth and staff for the "The Beast".